Overland with Kids

The Caravan

Our caravan collapsed - it was already falling apart at the seams but we didn’t realise just how bad the problem was. It is now condemmed to the scrap heap as unsafe. The wood inside the facia has been rotting from the elements for sometime now and Andrew maintains it is a crap design but it is was old unlooked after model which, between last year and this, managed to bring us through approx. 14 countries in total. We didn’t realise quite how badly the damage was since our last update until it’s upper rear half and side completely split from it’s bottom while driving from Crimea.

During our transit along a very bad diversion heading from the Crimea, our conversation went something like this:

Anne “Did you just hear something clang on the ground?”
Andrew “Maybe we should stop and check?”
Anne “Na - probably something on the road plus it’s pouring with rain and there are lorries piled up behind and in front - we’ve got nowhere to stop”.
Andrew - “I agree - probably nothing”

Later that evening while having a rest break from driving by the side of the caravan………

Anne “Look at our caravan side - it looks a really funny shape”
Andrew (goes round the back and checks) “Oh shit! Anne - come and look”

The rear of the caravan top had completely split from base with all bedding and our stuff hanging out. We hadn’t expected it. The caravan is a wood based frame which had completely rotted into dis-integration.

We managed by the skin of our teeth to drive right onto L’viv with the caravn worsening at every step and seriously on the verge of complete collapse. We stopped in a small village called Nemyriv and managed to buy some heavy duty ratchet lorry straps (moreso to be able to keep our contents in side for the moment) - but the caravan is completely split, buckled and burst from it’s bottom and sides and the situation worsening. We are in the process of having to dump and arrange for all contents (mainly educational, books, kitchen and long life foods and toiletries etc.) to follow possibly a similar fate. Currently, we are located in L’viv while planning our next steps.

Caravan is currently stored with a nice mechanic we found on arrival to L’viv where our Land Rover also decided collapse from exhaustion (we were planning to see a mechanic while in Crimea but due to unexpected issues with caravan decided to quickly move on). Luckily for us the Land Rover died just by a garage. We thought the problem was the fuel pump issue but instead found it was related again to some form of continued fuel starvation problem - blowing back as before has resolved - nearly choking the mechanic with diesel in the process - but all is well (cost 10 Euros for a full mornings work - we gave him 15 Euros for his trouble - plus 20 Euros storage and to keep an eye on caravan for 2 nights).

Our likley plan now is to try to drag caravan from L’viv to a campsite in Poland to arrange empty and disposal somewhere,somehow Quite what and how we’ll do hasn’t been worked out yet. Meantime we’re already getting used to sleeping in car between long stretches of driving as a way of living - not perfect but we’ll work something out along the way we’re sure.

L’viv

L’viv is beautiful and Ukraine’s beauty overall astounds us. In Ukraine in our view, people have a very nice life here overall. There is plenty of evidence of expensive Japanese 4wd and people well-dressed and enjoying themselves.

In L’viv, there is plenty to see - Museum of Glass, Museum of Sculpture, House of Scientists, Art Museums, Puppet Show Theatre, Ballet Theatre, Churches and monuments etc. The place is packed with ornate buildings and culture waiting to be discovered. There are several large parks which are very pleasant to wander around and many buildings of historical interest.

We visited Vysokky Zamok Park and had a lovely walk among the stations of the cross we accidently found there on our walk up a huge steep mound which happened to provide a reward of 360 degree views of the city at it’s top. Afterwards we wandered to the other side of town to one of Europe’s most beautiful cemetries called Lychakic Cemetry - founded in 1786 and originally used as a cemetry for the destitute - it is full of sumptious dedicated sculptures and burial vaults to some of the most famous and well-known people who have died. Today it is also a museum, covers an area of over 42 hectares and is the place of rest to over 400,000 people. Among many beautiful memorials, we saw a man tending the gravestone of two ladies - mother and daughter (presumably his own wife and daughter). The depiction on the grave illustrated their faces and that they had died on the same day in August 1986 due to a large passenger ship or liner that had sunk - it was very sad and moving to wonder what the memories and thoughts of this man must be.

The city itself is full of beautiful ornately decorated churches, cathedrals among Rennaisance and Baroque architecture. We thoughtt shabby chic in the most original of ways but undoubtedly the most beautiful, unspoilt city we have had the pleasure to visit. Original trams still operate among yellow buses, taxis and traffic. All streets are cobbled and murderous for the Land Rover and any car to navigate among the tram lines. There is evidence of tourism in L’viv - not much while we visited - but it is there. We saw a French motorhome and also a hostel we sought out with one American and one British guy plus a group of 4 other foreigners we didn’t recognise. Up until this point, we hadn’t seen any tourists throughout our trip in the Ukraine so far. On searching for the hostel in absence of a campsite, we decided not to stay as the rooms were 6 berth with people already in the bunks and felt that not really suitable, secure and private enough for us as a family. The hotels are expensive and quite grand in L’viv and very easy to find due to plentiful signage. After driving around the city for half a day and considering our options, we managed to find a small comfortable hotel in a side street on the outer skirts of town called Hotel Pheonix (54 Euros per night for all of us) - lovely, the food gorgeous and we feel throughly spoilt. An added bonus is that English is more widely spoken here.

Food

Between Turkey and Ukraine, we are finding the children’s portions of food too big and so have started to be more selective about anything we order to ensure we are not wasting money or food.

For the past few weeks - we haven’t been cooking ourselves due to the hot weather and convenience of cafes and restuarants everywhere but we also haven’t been in the mood to eat that much compared to when we first started out. Sometimes it is also down to convenience while travelling. It is also quite cheap. Soup, meat, fish, rice and pizzas are widely available. There are kiosks everywhere selling drinks, fruit and crisps etc.

Journey from Crimea to L’viv

Along the motorway between the Kershan and Odessa road where it starts to get good and even we found a lovely restaurant late at night called ‘The Cave’ with an osterich farm and lots of decorations like geese and storks and flowers abounding the place. We tried the national Ukraine Borsch soup with brioche bread - it was delicious following a long day’s driving. It also had an English menu which helped us loads. We have been trying to point at menu items and hoping for the best up to now.

Since arriving to Ukraine, our driving distances are getting longer and longer between stops a) because we are getting more used to the distances beween stops and b) because we need to get a move on for Russia. Somedays we average 800 miles between us before falling asleep exhausted in the car or take a turn to snooze.

While in Ukraine, the best stretch along our route has been the drive between Uman and Vinnyca. The countryside and houses and motorway views are absolutely stunning. Huge big mature trees about 3 deep line the roads and small, very well kept villages emerge every so often reminding us of a very refined version of Moldova. And always the camera is never ready when you need it - we saw a huge stork or crane cross the road and had to break quickly to let it cross - all we were missing was the sight of a big grizzly bear. With tortoises crossing the road during our visit in Cappadochia, we feel like we’ve seen it all.

Along the motorway are plenty of places to stop and eat. We found a very pretty place deep in the woods - with huts which served as private dining rooms and very comfortably decorated with flowery china chitnzy plates, table clothes, curtains and chairs. The area itself was decorated with bears and themes from Snow White and the the Seven Dwarfs - plenty to keep the children entertained and they could run as free as they liked. Again though the mosquitos proved a bit of a problem and we ended up enjoying the meal but couldn’t wait to get back in the car to escape.

The Roads

Our last report conclude that the roads weren’t bad in Ukraine but really, apart from the coastal areas they have been as bad as any other Eastern European country. Every now and again you will get a smooth run of motorway but it never lasts when the potholes and the rough roads kick in again. The roads are all sealed but patched and very lumpy with huge ruts at best.

Apart from Crimea where the roads are excellent but steep in the mountains - there are no road markings at the best of times, no lighting making pitch black conditions dangerous to drive at night. There are zebra crossings along the motorway where people cross - crazy! Much of the motorway is single rather than dual and drivers play chicken or Russian roulette to dive in between and over-take before on-coming traffic and lorries approach within millimetres. We had a small crash with one driver who pulled out in front of us suddenly while we were also attempting to do the same. Our wheel guard and side step got slight damage while the other driver came off worse but as he didn’t want to pursue the matter further we just drove on. We’ve been stopped by the Police 3 times since being here - they always check paperwork, ask questions and then send us on our way. They are hot on randomly pulling drivers over - both Ukraines and us alike. There are plenty of fuel stations but hardly any have air available for tyres - a compressor would be really useful and next on our list.

Welcome to Communism

Since arriving to Ukraine, apart from hotel stay we have chosen, costs have been really cheap. We have also been getting our first tastes of Russia as there are many ‘near abroads’ as they are called and Russian is widely spoken. People are quite stand off’ish - almost rude though if you persist in conversation people are quite nice. A smile is always raised when Jess or AJ practise the Cyrillic phrases they have learned.  People stare at you and what your doing and you get the feeling you are being watched sometimes though we know it isn’t true - just a weird feeling we get when eyes follow us sometimes and people look at every move you make. Diesel is only approx 0.80 Euros per litre - heaven after the expense of fuel in Turkey. Food and drink is very cheap.

Mileage

7,101

Expenses & Education etc. (for the children this week it’s been largely language based i.e. deciphering Cyrillics) - to follow in next update.

Next stop

Poland

Overall, we have been very impressed with the Ukraine - very interesting, pretty & beautiful - nothing at all what we had expected.

All the best for now

A, A,J, and AJ
xxxx

Diary (Blog)