Overland with Kids

Well, we sought advice, did some research, asked some questions and bought the books but thought a little bit of ‘hands-on’ professional vehicle mechanics training and familiarisation would definately be in order. We also decided against evening classes for two reasons:

A) The courses we came across were not specific to our own vehicle and

B) We wanted the freedom to go a level further than just the high-level servicing elements (though not too far!).   

Theory is great with book in hand but questions and doubts spring to mind as well as gaining confidence and learning safe application along with right equipment and tools etc.  There is nothing like being shown around your OWN vehicle, so we paid a local Land Rover mechanic called Roger with an excellent reputation (we met him previously to fix a fuel pump issue we had).

Just for the record - we are complete novices and not looking to become mechanics by any means. We intend having our vehicle regularly serviced by professional garages throughout our trip - but need to feel confident and be able to identify likely issues, key parts and good housekeeping skills along the way. In addition, we want to de-bug the mechanical gobbledy gook - that foreign language that some mechanics speak when talking about vehicle faults - so that we can understand more about what they are talking about.  Ultimately, enough sensible knowledge we can handle to assist the smooth running of the vehicle and our trip and help get us to Australia all in one piece!

So, having pre-arranged a date to suit everyone, we decided to take a day off work (without the children around) so we could give our vehicle familiarisation requirements our full attention.

Prior to this, we outlined with Roger by phone, in person and by email the kind of training we were after (and we are talking some real basics!).  But, being complete divvies we turned up on the day  without wheel locking key and service history so, we were duly sent back home again to collect. We knew we needed but just forgot - not a good start (and we’re thinking about travelling around the world!!!!).  Following are some of the areas covered during our training:

Changing a Wheel, plus Brake Discs, Brake Pads and Sandladdders

Andrew announced he already knew how to change  a wheel but Anne decided that “just in case” he fell down a ravine or something while travelling and we had a flat tyre - she’d need to know how to “do it” too - i.e. fix and deal with it herself in order to then try and rescue her husband (or leave him there? Not really!!! Just kidding - honest!). So, Roger and Anne pretended Andrew was stuck in a ravine somewhere and Anne was alone wih two children in the rear of the vehicle (who were probaby fighting, sweating to death without water and generally cranky - oh! and crying for their daddy!)) together with a flat tyre and not a soul around in the desert for approx 300 miles to come to her rescue. (Do they have ravines in deserts?).

The results: Anne knows how to ensure the vehicle is a level as possible, not in gear, steering wheel changed in direction to make as easy as possible to change tyre, to use a wheel chock or block of some kind to stop vehicle rolling back, to use appropriate wrench for wheel nuts, how and which points on vehicle to apply and operate a 3 Ton trolley jack (a hi-lift jack is definately not for her!), not to lift/jack vehicle too high - just want barely off the ground else Anne won’t be able to lift the weight of the old/new wheel, where to place an axle stand safely under the vehicle to support it, how to remove the wheel locking nut and remaining nuts, how to remove the wheel, how to apply a new/spare wheel, how to approach application of a new wheel safely especially when dealing with the heavy “weight” of a tyre not to mention getting the  heavy trolley jack out of the vehicle also (& could have caravan attached preventing access to rear of LR!)  - all by herself (this is where things like shovel and wrenches come in handy to support and tease wheel into place etc.), how to apply just a couple of the upper nuts to wheel first before lifting and straightening the wheel to be able to apply remaining, not to perform final wheel nut toghtening until vehicle back on flat level (and don’t forget to take the axle stand out!), how to check torque settings and that wheel nuts tightened up again enough, importance of keeping herself clear from being under the vehicle at any point and to always risk assess the situation.  Anne ran through this exercise twice by herself and gave herself a gold star along with filthy hands afterwards (a box of latex gloves and old overalls/clothes for protection may be in order!). Then she went and resuced Andrew from the ravine (in the desert!) for the next part of training exercise.

As part of wheel changing exercise, we were shown the brake discs, pads, springs and split pins held in place behind the wheel and how to check condition and wear plus what we can get away without if run into issues.

Sand ladders for wheels were discussed as useful pre-requisite but NOT waffle boards by any means as these can get stuck in mud (though handles could be applied). Under the advice of Foley’s we discussed going for Brownchurch galvanised steel sandladders (Foley’s against aluminium). We are still deciding about.

Snorkel

Second opinion invited which agreed with Foley’s view to exclude from requirements

Anti Roll Bar

Likely locations and purpose identified  

Brake, Clutch, Fuel and Air -Fluids and Filters & removing the Bonnet

Brake and Clutch - We were shown how to remove the bonnet of the LR completely without damaging so we could work completely free of it. Brake and clutch fluid reservoirs were identified, shown how to check including what tools to use to assist and that generally serviceable by us - we should bring a small bottle of DOT4 fluid (both use exactly the same fluid as one another).

Fuel Filter - shown where fuel filter is and lever on pump plus how to change and bleed to ensure no air in it.

Air Filter - How to clean via rubber tip to clear dust and how to change.

Screen Wash - if screen wash blocked - how to swap over connections

Under the Vehicle

We got a look right underneath the vehicle to see all of what we were learning, including waxoyl (which we should re-apply before we go on big trip), engine oil filter, whether we have diff guard and location, prop shaft and how pumps oil every 3,000 miles - gets dusty and dirty - to save wearing out - useful if mechanic does with special tool between services. Oil check shown and how it should spill out.

Caravan

To use low range to sort out the caravan on-site and to check overrun brakes and bearings (needs to be serviced) before we go. Voltage to be checked. Hitch lock recommended. Check overun/underrun complaince for caravan - legalities. Laws, rules, regs for each country. Can we bring wood across border into Oz. Do a check sheet.

Winch

Winches discussed and types used - remote control preferred and manufacturers like Ramsey (sufficient for our requirements) and Warn (the more expensive and better) was Roger’s view. We are still deciding about the winch and will discuss further with Foley’s.

Spares

Kit list of essentials discussed - split pins/hair grips, gaffer tape, cable ties, extinguisher, high visibiity vests, triangle, light kit, portable compressor, screen wash supplies, set of fuses, manuals, invertor required, master and slave cylinder, clutch (for mechanic to fit), air, fuel and oil filters, spare washers.

Catalytic converter - in-line with Foley’s advice - we should remove as serves no purpose and engine runs much better without - need de-cat kit to perform (Foley’s will do for us).

Fuses - shown location and function of each of the fuses inside the vehicle and their function including x 4 responsible for running  the vehicle -  60amp - one for engine and one for alternator and how to swap if engine stops to get us to the next garage.

Master cylinder, slave cylinder locations shown and likely clutch problems discussed- because we will be towing a heavy weight behind us - we needed to understand more about what might likely fail or put pressure on the LR to cope. We learned that slave cylinder has a bleed nut (not the same as fuel cylinder)  - slave likely to go first but we should take master as well. Need to pump the clutch. Can change ourselves except the physical clutch in the vehicle - we should take a spare to have available for a local mechanic to fit.

 Think that’s all for now!

 

Diary (Blog)
Vehicle Preparation